Getting lost in sawit forests

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It was during my beginning days of exploring in indonesia, when i was not knowing how to speak. I googled and found that there are some parts of world which are still not covered n the google maps and some places even if covered, rest of the details about those places are not available in a language known to me. So i set out with very little available information for my trip to sangkulirang without knowing that i am going to sawit forest.

Some happy moments on the way to sangkulirang.

So i asked my local friend who is also a driver. He gladly agreed and together we reached sangkulirang after four hours drive from sangatta.

The place was very green around everywhere. Even though i was with two of my friends, the thought of going somewhere to explore, where you don’t even know the local language to express yourself in case of emergency was slighly discomforting me.

On reaching the place, we had our lunch in a hotel nearby and asked for direction through our driver. The communication was not effective. They told us all the information correctly.  Our friend and guide  was not curious at all. He was a very ignorant and innocent guy. He had helped me a lot during my stay. what they told in the hotel was “There are three different routes. you have to take a ferry accordingly”.But our friend did not know where to take us. Now our friend took us to a random place. We blindly followed him.

The ferry took us across the river and we entered the forest / plantation areas. After lot of roaming we reached some area near sea(Celebes sea). It was a mangrove forest. They used sea water to water the plants when the tide is high. And there were lot of tents made for relaxing / watch towers.

The wood from the mangrove trees are very strong and do not easily break and they also have a long life.  You can see the dense trees behind where i was standing. 

Just a display of my strength. He was 40 Kg heavier than me.

The board behind me in this picture says this is a conservation area for various plants and animals. And it is true to  every word. I saw a big monitor lizard and mistaken it for a komodo dragon. There were lot of birds flying here and there. The local people hunt and there is no restriction for hunting, so a lot of species would have got dissappeared, i guess.

The use of river water and sea water for watering the plants. I could not understand the system, whether it was drain into sea or use of sea water for irrigation for mangroves. From the elevation, i can undestand that both river and sea water is used for irrigation with a bifurcation.

We were welcome by another sign board. It was the way to view the mangrove forests and the beach.

Mangrove forests.The roots growing above the ground.

That is me sitting on a root of a mangrove tree.

The sawit fruit( Buah sawit)

This is just one picture of a sawit fruit. There were thousand like this lying here and there on the road side of the forest converted plantations.

I forgot to take photos when i was truly lost amidst the sawit trees. There were some sign boards too indicating that we are not in a forest but amidst plantations , but all the routes are so similiar, and no humans at sight, we panicked and roamed around. We used sun for direction and reached near the river after a search of four hours. 

We returned using the ferry, which is a very common means of transport across rivers in kalimantan. The first time i used ferry was in tengarrong, another beautiful place. There are lot of places in kalimantan to be explored for us , but about which the locals are familiar. If you ask for tourist places, you may not get correct response. There are backpacker groups and student groups who frequent to all these places. At other times these places are deserted. But you can notice people traveling in the night also without any trouble, even women traveling alone. Such is the culture of this place.

Even though women can travel solo, language barrier is a big drawback. Indonesian is very easy to learn and once you know basics, you can easily go across anywhere. The people on the country side are very friendly and there are road side houses where you can stay or take rest and have food round the clock.

There are many rivers all over kalimantan and therefore the place is very green everywhere. It is possible to get lost in a forest without satellite signal. It is impossible to move from one place to another without prior planning or may cost huge time and money. The roads are not as bad as mentioned in miss mureena’s blog.

Sangkulirang is an lesser explored part in east kalimantan province of Indonesia, home to the sawit forests. There are many places near sangkulirang for diving. There is a river with even name and it divides the district into parts. Islands are situated in the river as well as near the mouth of the river in the ocean and far in the ocean.

This place inspired me to learn indonesian language. Kaarst caves of sangkulirang are very famous yet i could not even locate it since all information is available in indonesian and the time constraint as an expat living there was unfavourable.

Just like i got lost in the sawit forest, i am also lost in writing about the topic and deviated far away from it.

 

 

A trip to the island of kaniungan kecil

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“Pull Kaniungan kecil” is the name of a small island located in the biduk-biduk region in berau, East kalimantan Indonesia. One of the extremely offbeat place in the world and soon to become a over-crowded tourist spot in quite a few years, this island is unheard off even to many native indonesians.

“Kecil” in indonesian means small. “Pulau Kaniungan besar” is another island located nearby. “Besar” in indonesian means big. “Pulau” in indonesian means Island.

As the name implies the small island when viewed from boat.

 

With only the boat driver along with two of us, the island looked deserted. The local fishermen are well aware of the receding tides. As you stand in the waves you can feel the drift of water from the island towards the sea, as if water is continuously flowing like a river from the island to sea. There are no waves and the water is crystal clear about a km surrounding the island. This makes the island an ideal place for snorkelling.

 

As soon as we got into the water these fishes swarmed us. They were jumping out of water in a group and their movement was was very patternistic like an army attacking an enemy. They swarmed towards us (around 10000 fishes) and smelt us and then receded from us within few seconds, even before i could turn my camera on. Once the fishes felt safe, the group dispersed and swam along with us. All these happening only in a knee deep water, just within a 10 feet from shore.

 

Fishes in kaniungan kecil approaching like an army

 

fishes that swam near us

 

We snorkelled in only two feet deep and this is the sight. As we reached the island late, during the receding phase of water, we could nod spend much time. We were totally unprepared due to lack of information regarding this island.

Tried some underwater photography and snorkelled for some time.

How to reach?

Nearest Aiport: Berau(Kalimarau) . 6 hours drive from airport to teluk suleiman. From there hire a boat(about half an hour)

By land: Directly hire a cab from Balikpapan. It takes approximately 15-16 hours.

Places to see

  1. Kaniungan kecil (Island)
  2. Kaniungan besar (Island)
  3. Teluk suleiman (Beach)
  4. Teluk sumbang (Water falls)
  5. Labuan cermin(Lake with salt water at bottom and fresh water at top)(next post)
  6. Air panas(Hot water stream)

Tips

  1. Places 1-4 listed above can be covered in 1 day
  2. The island is uninhabited. So carry water and food with you before starting from teluk suleiman.
  3. Labuan cermin is beautiful between 10 am to  2 PM. Otherwise you miss the beauty.

See you until next post.

 

River rafting at Bali

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For me  year 2014 ended with a rafting session at Telaga Waja river at Bali, Indonesia. This was my third rafting experience besides barapole and kali rivers in India but definitely the longest and safest experience.

Welcome to river rafting at bali

We arrived at the rafting spot, with a welcome drink, we were given safety jacket, helmet and paddles. As usual stuff like ‘have you been to rafting’ , ‘I have been many times’ , ‘Do they take photographs’ , ‘Is it risky’, ‘Do i need to know swimming?’,  ‘ Where to collect photographs’ , were discussed with new friends. The starting point had a small waterfall sort of. We rushed in water to get accustomed to and soon immersed.

Visually appealling

Prior to this i have done rafting twice in india. The places aroung Telaga waja river was so scenic, surrounded by mountainous forest, numerous waterfalls(waterfalls in Bangalore-Mangalore Train journey were more numerous), highly rocky,  protruding cliffs, greenery within and surrounding river, and the number of rafts itself made a visual treat to eyes.

Comfortable and Safe

The single most important feature in rafting in Bali is the feeling of comfort and safe. With my prior experience i assure you ,It is very dangerous in India, but if you seek for thrill, definitely yes. There was a different kind of thrill in bali rafting, the protruding cliffs, you have to bend often , inorder to not to get hit by the rocks sometimes projected towards the river from land, yet you will feel safe. Bali rafting is for all people, family and children aged above ten.

Scenic Water falls

After an hour of rafting session, An optional break is provided to you. The raft is brought to rest near a scenic stunning breathtaking waterfalls. You can get down the raft and take some nice photographs here. Also they sell drinks.

Climax drop

This was most special in bali rafting. They drop your raft from a height of four metres with you inside the raft. Prior to this they ask you to keep smiling for photographs. The rest you can see below.

8 USD for softcopy and 4 USD for one hard copy(210 x 297 mm) is charged for these photos.

Delicious lunch

Because of the feeding received by your eyes, you will not feel hungry after the session. However lunch is provided at the end of the session after a climb in steps to the top of the cliff. Native food like Nasi Goreng(Fried rice) , Mie Goreng(Fried Noodles), water melon , Chicken , is available and delicious.
The Economic tour Itinary

It is very economic to do rafting in bali. It costed USD 30 per person for the following

1. Pickup from hotel to rafting spot (90 minutes journey from kuta)

2. Welcome drink

3. Collect your accessories – life jacket, helmet, sweep paddle

4. Rafting session – two hours (with a optional break after one hour in a stunning waterfall in mid forest)

5. Bathroom, changing room – towel provided free of cost. Carry only change of clothes.

5. Sumptuous lunch

6. Return to hotel.

Any more questions , feel free to contact me.

And I am waiting for future encounters with river, now that I knew swimming as well.